CHRISTKINDL MARKETS: A MAGICAL GERMAN HOLIDAY TRADITION

by Kim Marvel

My wife and I followed a familiar Christmas tradition when our two boys were young. We typically travelled to the homes of our families of origin, splitting our holiday vacation time between our two sets of parents. Our sons, indeed all of us, enjoyed visiting grandparents, aunts, uncles, and cousins from both sides of the family. Those special visits were filled with gift exchanges, games, scrumptious meals, lots of smiles and laughter. We wouldn’t change anything about those years of re-establishing family ties and filling our emotional cups to the brim. Then, one year, we discovered a new tradition that expanded our vision of how Christmas is experienced and enjoyed elsewhere.

A little background is needed here. As this story begins, over 30 years ago, we were busy making a living and raising a family. Living in the upper-Midwest at the time, we were both teaching and our sons, ages 9 and 11, were in elementary school. I was fortunate to receive a visiting professor assignment in Vienna, Austria. Just like that, the four of us were whisked off to Vienna for the fall semester. When Christmas break approached, we eagerly arranged visits to nearby cities. That December, beginning in Vienna, then Prague, and finally Salzburg, we discovered the magic of the Christkindlmarkt tradition.

Christkindlmarkts (literally “Christ Child Market”) are beautiful open-air markets found throughout Germany and Austria during the holiday season. They are composed of temporary huts, typically set up in the town square with a cathedral steeple overhead. Vendors and artisans sell handmade crafts such as ornaments, hand-carved wooden toys and figurines, music boxes, nutcrackers, even cuckoo clocks. But these extraordinary markets are much more than simply a place to buy gifts. To be there in person is to be immersed in a full-sensory experience. Vendors and visitors alike wear traditional clothing and hats rich in color and texture. Strings of twinkling lights provide a warm glow to the chilly night air. In the background floats traditional music, perhaps the oom-pah-pah of a brass band or a vocal rendition of Stille Nacht (Silent Night) in the original German dialect. And, oh, the wonderful smells! One is tempted by the grilled bratwurst, strudel, freshly-baked gingerbread cookies, longos (delicious fried bread), and candied almonds. We relished the fragrance and taste of Gluhwein, a hot spiced wine. A complete Christkindlmarkt experience involves cradling a cup of Gluhwein in both hands to ward off the chill, nibling on candied nuts, and leisurely strolling over snow-covered cobblestones among the decorated booths to find the perfect handmade gift.

Christkindl markets have a long, rich tradition in Europe. The first documented open-markets during Christmastime were in Munich in the 1300s. Originally, people gathered around the church and celebrated with song, food, and small gifts. Over the centuries, during the period of Advent leading up to Christmas, farmers, tradesmen, and artisans would set up shop around churches and sell handcrafted goods. As churches at that time were usually located in the middle of town, these gatherings became open-air markets in the town square. Not only did these festive markets provide a celebration in anticipation of Christmas and the birth of the Christ child, they also provided a much-needed activity to brighten the cold and dreary days of winter. Nuremburg was the first city to give the celebration the name Christkindlmarkt. Nowadays, these markets have spread to other countries. Despite variations in the location and appearance of the markets, they are best known for the quality of craftmanship of the handmade items from Germany and Austria.

When we returned home, we resumed the tradition of visiting our families during the holiday season, a celebration centered around love and renewal of family relationships. We told family and friends about our special memories of Christkindl markets in Austria. Then, after relocating to our home state of Colorado, we were thrilled to discover a Christkindl market in Denver. Now we know that these special events take place across the country, including Arlington, Texas. Many offer hand-crafted items imported directly from Germany. Many of you have likely enjoyed a Christkindl market in Europe or the U.S. Last December my wife and I re-visited the Christkindl market in Denver. Compared to the holiday markets in Europe, we found it a little more commercialized, with no cobblestones underfoot nor tall cathedral steeples above. Nevertheless, we were delighted to stroll among the decorated booths, check out the authentic German handicrafts, and sip a cup of Gluhwein, clasped in both hands.